Wine Region: Surrey

(2026) Grown on Greyfriars' south-facing, chalk slopes in Surrey, this is a non-vintage blend of Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier, aged 40 months before release. Aromatically there is brioche and a yeasty, gently nutty quality. The bubbles are small, and in the mouth the lemony bite of the acidity offsets the sweetness of ripe, juicy apple fruit. I don't know the dosage here, though there is some impression of sweetness that makes it quaffable, and relatively inexpensive in the scheme of current traditional method English fizz. Watch the video for more information.

(2018) All Chardonnay, and also 'zero dosage' with only 1g/l of residual sugar, this was aged for 6 months on lees before a further 27 months on lees in bottle. That has given a subtle yeastiness and toast on the nose of this pale wine with moderately persistent, small bubbles, but the aromatics are of sharp, fresh apple and citrus. The extended ageing is a good thing on the palate too, because the wine remains sharply focused and incisive, a green apple bite of acidity running through it, a lick of salt and lemon juice minerality, but just enough breadth and creaminess to leave it deliciously moreish, though well-delineated into the finish.

(2018) Made from hand-picked Pinot Noir from Denbies' the Hillside vineyard in Surrey, this wine had considerable ageing: six months on the lees in tank followed by 27 months of secondary fermentation in bottle. The result is a wine with a nice golden glow to its pale colour, and hints of richness to the otherwise bright and vivacious personality. Small notes of red fruits join the lemon and bruised apple, then a dry, lemon and salts acidity is emphasised by its very low dosage (only 4.2g/l residual sugar), so it is keen and apple-fresh into the finsih.

(2017) A delightful Rose this, mostly Pinot Noir with a little Pinot Meunier. One third of the blend is fermented in oak barrels for around six months before being transferred to bottle for its lees ageing. A pale, peachy-pink colour, small, delicate red fruits dominate the nose, leading on to a palate that is crystal clear, a foamy cushion of mousse and the raspberry-fresh combination of mouth-watering acidity and sweet fruit driving through to a lovely balanced finish.

(2016) We still see relatively few English red wines, the heat and sunshine needed to properly ripen red wine grapes (where the skins and sometimes pips are used in the ferment) being sometimes deficient. Here the blend is Pinot Noir with two grapes especially bred to suit cooler climates, Dornfelder and Rondo. It has a moderate crimson colour and lightly spicy aromas with some lipsticky character and red fruits. In the mouth there is a little oak, a lean savouriness, and enough red berry and raspberry fruit to be pleasing, though in all honesty the value for money is hard to see.

(2015) Again, a blend of the three classic Champagne grapes, from Denbies 'Yew Tree' vineyard at the highest point of the estate, cellared for four years before release. It has a pale colour and fine bubbles, a touch of biscuit on the nose to ripe orchard fruits and citrus. Less layered than the others aromatically, it is nevertheless delicious to drink, again with a sweet mid-palate fruitiness but perfectly balanced acidity, the gentle mousse persisting through the finish.